Green Brews: An Ecology of Beer
"The aspiration underlying beer is that the natural propensity of yeast to… multiply,… froth and bubble will spill over into an analogous growth and prosperity for those placing the offerings." -Kathryn March, in Katz
Beer builds culture, literally. Not only is it a product of microbial culture, but it's also known for growing human culture. For millennia our species has gathered in ceremony around the magical elixir. This post explores the ecology of the sacred drink and its predisposition to be sustainable from a whole systems perspective.
Micro-Biodiversity
Beer is made by soaking grain in water. When the grain is sprouted its starch is converted to maltose, or malt sugar. Microbial yeast organisms feed on the maltose, bubbling and multiplying as they convert the sugar to alcohol and carbon dioxide. The process is a micro-organismic celebration of biodiversity.
In Wild Fermentation, Sandor Elix Katz suggests that as we consume the micro-biodiversity of beer we are strengthening the connection between our body ecology and the external, natural world. In Radical Brewing
, Randy Mosher tells us that historically beer “functioned as an important part of a whole nutritional system.”
Global Anthropological Significance
Beer has also played an integral role in the development of human culture. Katz explains that beer has been associated with every grain ever cultivated and eaten by man. Rice, wheat, corn, rye, soy, barley, and millet, along with many others, have pan-cultural histories as beer. When we ingest beer we experience an altered state that some say led to the creation of human consciousness. Inebriation from fermented alcohol has been attributed to inspiration and spirituality across human culture for over 12,000 years.
Bioregionalism
With big beer on the craft brew bandwagon, it is a good time to ask the question: What is the difference between organic and sustainable (beer)? The answer: Organic is a label applied to growing standards and ingredients. Sustainable is a system of replicating an action infinitely with out net degradation.
In his book, Fermenting Revolution: How to Drink Beer and Save the World, Christopher Mark O'Brien describes a new wave of bioregional craft breweries and brewpubs that are going beyond the basics of organic ingredients. Bioregionalism, a term coined in the1970's by Peter Berg, is the idea that human activity can only be sustainable if it is localized around a geographic location and natural resources. Berg explains that, “harmonizing with the natural systems of each bioregion is a necessary step toward preserving the whole biosphere.”
O'Brien reports “Craft brewers are very intentionally innovating sustainable practices and working hard to build strong local communities.” Whether using spent grains for bread making, harvesting wind energy to run equipment, restoring local fish populations, or integrating methane energy from spent grain digestion into farm production, bioregionalism is creating sustainable, closed-loop brew systems.
Drinking Ecological Beer
Locally sourced, organic ingredients, recycled bottles and packaging, minimal transportation, and live cultures are all elements that contribute to the ecology of beer. With thousands of craft brewers in the country, there is bound to be one close to you. BrewPubZone.com has a comprehensive directory of micro breweries, brewpubs, restaurants, contract brewers, and large breweries by state. With local addresses, phone numbers and website links, anyone can find who is making the beer in their bioregion. For an option to grocery store brew, bring your own brown jug to the local brewpub and take some culture to go.
Tags: beer, biodiversity, bioregionalism, ecology, ferments, Sandor Katz, Wine, Beer and Spirits
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June 17th, 2007 at 1:53 pm
nice,
I want to point out that if we are talking about sustainably produced beer then we need to be aware of where the brewer gets their ingredients. just because the brewery is local does not mean the ingredients are local.
so ask.
I have.
alot.
and the employees at the breweries generally do not know where the ingredients come from. Usually I only find out if the brew master is around.
So the point is to keep asking and put pressure on your local brewery to locally source their ingredients as much as possible
June 19th, 2007 at 1:37 pm
The “point” is to pressure your local brewery into using local product?
Believe it or not, beer ingredients do not grow everywhere! Most breweries try to use local product as it’s usually cheaper. Don’t punish your brewer for using grain, hops, yeast, etc. from areas other than his own, he’s doing the best he can.
You’re doing great buying local beer, that’s the point.
June 26th, 2007 at 9:46 am
Hops only come from three main growing regions: Pacific Northwest (Yakima Valley in Washington (largest) and the Willamette Valley, Oregon), New Zealand, and East Europe.
Brewers barely comes from high mountain fields in Idaho, Montana, Wyoming and Colorado (in valleys with altitudes as high as 10,000ft) as well as Alberta, Manitoba and Saskatchewan.
You won’t find barley suitable for brewing (high in enzymes, low in protein, feed barley is high in protein) growing almost anywhere else.
You will be happy to know that since the standards for brewing barley include protein levels at or below 11%, it is very rare for a barley farmer to use nitrogen fertilizer on their crops because the added nitrogen will increase protein production.